The last step I'd do is to manually adjust the color according to what we know of the image. In this case, moving the grey point down brings the blue of the sections out well, but you'd probably want to do that just for the right areas, as the second panel doesn't respond so well. Adjusting the grey point can also help the image. This has the effect of "blowing" any color lighter than than that into pure white, and stretching out the rest of the scale to fit.Īt this point you might also consider moving the black input level as well to deepen any "almost black" color to pure black. dialog, bring the white input level down a bit. We will remove this with the Levels tool. Now we have all the background essentially wiped out, leaving just very pale noise. It might need a bit more color erase too, as the top of the image has a different background tint.įor the second panel, that's going to need some similar care to remove the stains, but with the added complication of the background detail. I'm not going to do the text here, as that's just more fiddling, but the concept is the same. There's not a lot that can be done about that automatically, as the image data and defects are very similar. If you have defects in an image area, you might need to fix it manually, for example with the Clone tool. You don't need to worry about anything significantly lighter than the lightest detail of the image, but it doesn't hurt to hit anything if you're in an area. The first thing to do is to use the normal Eraser tool to wipe out major noisy features, for example the shadowed images and dark spots. Most of the junk left now is actually darker than than the light areas of the image, which means that you can't just hit it with the eraser or levels and hope for the best. Then you can select a new background color and erase it again, repeating a few times if needed:įrom here, it starts to get more fiddly. At this point, I remove the top layer alpha channel ( Layers > Transparency > Remove Alpha Channel), then add it back, to "reset" it. if you try to use the dropper tool on the background now, you'll see the color is much more intense than it looks. The top layer is now a gauzy mess of quite intense color with a low alpha. There's still some color left in the background, which is because the color we erased isn't exactly the background color of the whole image. We now have a lot more contrast between background and image. You should see the bulk of the sepia color fall away, leaving you with a fairly pale background and the image: Choose a large size, and paint over the entire image. Now, select the Paintbrush Tool, and in the options, put it into Color erase mode. Using the dropper tool, select a "representative" sample of the sepia background. As we erase the color we don't like, the white backdrop will shine through. Add an alpha channel to it ( Layer > Transparency > Add Alpha Channel). Now, re-select the original image layer (should be the top layer). Without that, you'd get a the checkerboard grid, which will drown out image details. Then, add a white layer under the image to act as a backdrop when we start erasing things. Let's start with opening the file in GIMP. In your case, the blue areas might need to be re-saturated or otherwise boosted afterwards to restore intent, as it's pretty faint, even in the original.
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